Ezra Klein on Meal Value: Caloric and Economic

Ezra Klein addresses the benefits of restaurants posting calorie counts and the lack of true value of Restaurant Week pre-fixe menus over at The Washington Post.

I had a conversation over the weekend with some friends who live outside of NYC about how much I truly appreciate seeing the calorie counts. It's all about making a truly informed choice. Though, as Klein point out, some restaurants may rue that they can no longer just douse their dishes in butter.

Unattractive Men Eating Unattractive Meat

Chris Ying writes a very amusing article measuring a TV Show Host's attractiveness against the unattractiveness of the food her or she consumes in a periodical that's new to me, meatpaper.

Basically, he posits, if one measures attractiveness of any Food Show TV Host on a scale of 0-10 and then adds that score to a similar measurement of the UN-attractiveness of the featured food(s), the resulting sum is 10. For instance, Adam Richman from Man vs. Food on the Travel Channel (a favorite lazy Saturday viewing choice in my household) would rate about a 6 and the food he eats, though not necessarily gross is certainly junk-y and invariably served in gross portions, would rate about a 4. An entirely unscientific, but fun way to think about the food tv we consume.

Cook's Illustrated Cold Oil French Fries

The most recent issue of Cook's Illustrated includes a great, Domestic Agenda tested recipe for French Fries. It upends the traditional method of frying russet potato strips twice by using yukon golds, which are less starchy, and only frying them once, starting with cold oil. I knew when I tested it that it easily yielded wonderfully browned, tasty fries, but I found out after reading the finished article they're also apparently less greasy (by 1/3) than those made using the traditional method. Win-win. I highly recommend you take the 'option' to include the bacon fat. Pig-a-licious!


Easier French Fries
From Cook's Illustrated August 2009

2 1/2 lbs Yukon Gold Potatoes (about 6 medium), scrubbed, dried, sides squared off, and cut length-wise in 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch batons (strips)

6 cups peanut oil

1/4 cup bacon fat, strained, optional

Kosher Salt

1. Combine potatoes, oil, and bacon fat (if using) in large Dutch oven. Cook over high heat until oil has reached rolling boil, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook, without stirring, until potatoes are limp but exteriors are beginning to firm, about 15 minutes

2. Using tongs, stir potatoes, gently scraping up any that stick, and continue to cook, stirring ocacasionally, until golden and crisp, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Using skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer fries to thick paper bag or paper towels. Season with salt and serve immediately.

New Kitchen!

As promised, pics of my new, improved kitchen. It's not fully organized yet, but it's getting there. I've been having an amazing time cooking in it so far!

Top half of pantry. So much storage!!

Bottom half of pantry

My awesome stove which boils water at the speed of light!

Trends from The Fancy Food Show

I sampled lots of cool products at the 55th Fancy Food show earlier this week, some interesting or tasty enough to warrant their own posts. For now, I'll share with you some overall trends.

1. Chocolate with sea salt
Including sofi award winners Mari's New York Caramel Sea Salt Brownie and John Kelly Chocolates Truffle Fudge Bites -Dark Chocolate with French Grey Sea Salt.

2. Chocolate with bacon
Including Vosges

3. Chocolate and caramels with spicy stuff

4. Blood orange
Including sofi award winners Sarabeth's Kitchen Blood Orange Marmalade and Au Printemps Gourmet/Brickston Fine Foods Caramelized Onion and Blood Orange Confit.

5. Drinks made from aloe
These looked like the stuff you put on after a sunburn and tasted like sugar.

6. Drinks made from coconut juice
These tasted like stuff you put on before a sunburn...and sugar.

Stay tuned for tips on some great food finds for yourself or for gifting and where to find them.

Sound Opinions Show #187: Food & Music

A while ago commenter Jeff, who also happens to be my brother, turned me on to Chicago based rock radio show Sound Opinions and their podcast. On June 26th they aired an inspired show about the relationship between food and rock, featuring an interview with everyone's favorite culinary pirate, Anthony Bourdain, as well as some Midwest area chefs, and a discussion of songs inspired by food stuffs. You can listen to it streaming on their web page, or download a free mp3. Warning, you may want to fast forward through the MJ tribute that starts the show...or not. It's actually one of the better ones I've heard.

Take away:
1. Portishead=Bad. Stooges=Good.
2. People like free stuff
3. If you are to be a true, if recovering, hedonist like our friend, Tony B, you must love food, rock and sex

Dumpling Fest!

Sorry posts have been few and far between. I moved into a new apartment, which thankfully includes a brand new and much improved kitchen (pics to come) and have been distracted by settling in. I have been cooking, but haven't been dilligent about sitting my bum down to write about it!

I do want to write about these tasty, easy and cheap dumplings which I will be making for a second time this Friday night. I cribbed the recipe and idea from this Eat for Eight (dollars) post on SeriousEats. Dumplings require a fair amount of labor upfront, but freeze so well (freeze, uncooked in a single layer, then put in a plastic bag), that they'll keep for a month! They're great for a casual meal, snack or appetizer.

Boiled Pork and Cabbage Dumplings

Yields about 50 dumplings

1/2 pound Napa cabbage, finely shredded
1/2 pound ground pork
4 scallions, finely chopped
1 tablespoon ginger, grated on a microplane
3 cloves minced garlic
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon fine salt

store-bought wonton wrappers

bowl of cold water

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Blanch cabbage until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and rinse in cold water. Drain, squeeze out excess water, and transfer to a large mixing bowl.

2. Add all remaining ingredients to bowl containing cabbage. Knead by hand until thoroughly combined.

3. Put a large pot 3/4 full with water on stove-top to boil.

4. With the aid of cold water (to seal edges) fill dumlings with pork mixture and fold like tortellinis according to pictures below.

5. Lower dumplings into boiling water in batches. Boil approximately 3 minutes. Remove with strainer and serve immediately

One of my favorite dipping sauces to serve with dumplings is an acidic/sweet mixture of lime juice, sesame oil, hoisin and minced scallions. Experiment with the ingredients leftover from filling (including ginger, soy sauce, garlic, etc) to find your favorite.